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LUXE TREND 52
MET GALA - OFF WITH HIS HEAD
The first Monday in May.A day that from this point forward will live in fashion infamy, thanks to the 2019 MET Gala. A gala organized by none other than Anna Wintour,a fashion deity - or OG - who declared the MET Costume Instituteher own a few years ago by renaming it, and has succeeded in creating the legendary red carpet entrance for celebrities and assorted international glitterati.
Where does one begin to analyze the lasting effect of this year’s celebrity arrivals? The theme of the exhibit is CAMP. CAMPas in ironic style, not as Camp-style, filled with sleeping bags and Woolrichplaids. CAMP as in Cherand Bob Mackieand David Bowie,and other true legends of the genre. Because of the apparent intellectual stretch of the concept this year, the theme of the exhibit required some academic correlation. According to Andrew Bolton, the Institute’s director, CAMPwas inspired by Susan Sontag’sessay on the aesthetic movement, an interpretation expressed by a fascinating and talented writer.
Wintour’sunparalleled commercial timing and sensibilities required a MET show to attract the Gucci juggernaut, and by God, she was going to have it. Andrew Bolton obliged her by creating a show around this “pitch”. To be fair, Fashion in the last few seasons offered plenty of examples that can be classified as CAMP. Alessandro Micheleis not the only designer to push the bad taste envelope further than any designer since the 1970s. Bertrand Guyonat Schiaparelli, Pier Paolo Piccioli atValentinoand Michael Halpern, among others, all powered through the past seasons flying their own Freak Flags and getting lauded for many of their collections as a result.
But nothing, absolutely nothing, prepared us for the guests who arrived at the MET,“interpreting” CAMP through their own creativity.
And that creativity often reached horrifying new heights.
On E!, Brad Gorecki’susual self-important commentary added a tasteless layering to the proceedings, affectedly pronouncing designer names in native accent (Vouittton!), declaring fashion “Moments” that were simply nonexistent, a plastic-enthusiastic cheerleader voice from a studio across town. Yet it was a fitting accompaniment to the scary and hilarious images of the arrivals on the TV screen.
The curtain went up with Lady Gaga’sand Brandon Maxwell’sauthentic and campy performance that actually had something appropriate with the evening’s theme. It was a 10-minute striptease that ended with Lady Gaga in underwear and 10-inch heels on the steps to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Well, if that doesn’t spell Fashion with a capital F, nothing does.
Kim Kardashian, the fashion “icon”, gotThierry Mugler- a truly talented couturier in his own right - to dress her as if she had just completed the ice bucket challenge. The notes said, Muglerwas inspired by the movie the Boy and the DolphinandSophia Loren coming out of the ocean, dripping. Who is the person who convincedKKW she is the Sophia Lorenof our time? As expected, Kimwas accompanied by Kanye West, dressed as an elevator repairman (was that a costume? Was it Camp?) in Dickies.
Pier Paolo Picciolifrom Valentino arrived with Joan Collins- was she ever Camp? - and Julianne Moore- never Camp - Mark Ronson and Naomi Campbell.The days of the single date seem to be over. Bring me your poor, huddled fashion masses to the Ball. And dress them in Valentino,please! I imagined hearing Andre Leon Talley’sgleeful cackle from an inside room, watching the monitors, saying: “Darling, this is Fabulous!”.
Clare Waight Keller and Iris van Herpen presented collections plucked from the future. At Givenchy, Keller’s Haute Couture atelier must be an operating theater equipped with a Gamma knife. Such glossy precision! The house’s famous Bettina blouse made a quick, well-judged reappearance. The color and material selections - glossy latex bodysuits under gowns - had a Galliano for Dior circa 2003 vibe. SearchDior Haute Couture 2003 to see what I mean. Nevertheless, this is a designer to watch and someone who understands what Modern Chic means in 2019 and is not afraid to stick to classic codes to prove her point.
This fashion rant would not be complete without mentioning Prada’segregious offenses against modern menswear. The new men's suit is a military uniform - recently done by Kim Jones at Dior-accompanied by enough pockets to hide sophisticated weaponry. Prada's uniform has haunted us off and on for two decades already. Gentlemen, it’s ok to wear a tux. You are neither a paratrooper nor a terrorist. If you are there, you are probably a hip hop artist aspiring to marry a Kardashian.And remember you are on hallowed ground at the MET.
Franco Moschino was the Italian designer who gave Camp Fashionstreet-cred. Moschino'sclothes were always impeccably made, with clever details, and were copied by other, more serious designers, likeDolce & Gabbanaand even Chanel. Moschino’sauthentic satyrical take on serious fashion did not translate very well whenJeremy Scott took over the brand’s design helm. Scott’sfashion take of Moschino is less sly and gaudier than Franco’s. Scott’s designs appeared on this year's red carpet, and they were the only ones deserving an appearance since the brand’s history was really founded on Camp.
Katy Perry’stwo-part dim-witted fashion statement included a lit chandelier and a hamburger suit for the after party. A hamburger suit. At the Metropolitan Museum of Art. I am starting to miss the PETApeople who throw red paint on women wearing fur. They were needed to be at the METlast night.
Watching this parade of world-class narcissism, the evening found me becoming increasingly infuriated at Anna Wintourwho has permitted this display of worthless extravagance to amplify through the years. The METball is now a runway of bad taste, commercial placements, and a Cosa Nostramentality in a fashion system that celebrates not the unique and individualistic, but the badly behaved excesses of the people who rule it. Do these celebrities need yet another red carpet in their already busy year of appearances? Or should we blame the stylists and publicists who fuel such behavior?
Fashion publicists go through elaborate terminology trying to justify inspirations that tie them to each house’s past in order to make them appear brand-cohesive. From this day forward, let’s just agree to call Ugly what it is and let that be the rallying cry of all future “Freaks”and “Monsters”. Shame on Anna Wintourfor allowing this display to clutter our airwaves for several days already, for belittling the legacy of that institution through continuous tawdry displays, and for insisting on celebrating rather than take to task those who are outright ignorant and disrespectful.
The Costume Instituteis not a Halloween Costume Institute. It is an important organization chronicling not just fashion and style through the centuries, but also design, innovation, craftsmanship and cultural mores as expressed through clothing. Shouldn’t there be instructions to that effect printed on the Gala’s invitation? Does the MET Gala belong in May or in October?