LUXE TREND 44
SIHH 2018 REPORT-LUXURY TIMEPIECES
In January, at the recent SIHH — the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie Genève — there were definite signs of recovery for luxury watchmakers. The Salon is the preeminent showcase of luxury timepieces. The revaluation of the Swiss Franc and the introduction of smart watches created the beginning of a twin storm for the industry which was only exacerbated in 2016 by declining demand in the Chinese markets. In 2017 alone the Hong Kong shipments of luxury watches declined by 25%. The rise of the international money markets to new heights in 2017, and a renewed uptick in Chinese demand, emboldened luxury watch manufacturers to scale to new heights of creativity with some of the most exciting watch launches in recent memory.
Merging technological innovations with extraordinary feats of traditional workmanship, the watches we have selected to highlight in this issue of Luxe Trends represent the best of the state-of-the-art.
Ulysse Nardin Freak Vision
Last year’s Ulysse Nardin Freak Innovision 2 had no less than 10 innovations. For this year’s Freak Vision timepiece the watchmaker reduced the number of innovations and made its original concept watch model commercially available. The new model has an extra light escape wheel made of silicon and nickel, and a constant Anchor Escapement.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli
Only 88 pieces made of this 45mm Automatic Skeleton in Titanium. In 2017 the brand announced its partnership with premium tire maker, Pirelli, with two new watches, the Excalibur Spider Pirelli Automatic Skeleton and the Excalibur Spider Pirelli with Double Flying Tourbillon Limited Edition, both with rubber straps made from Pirelli tires.
Roger Dubuis continued along an automotive theme with an announcement of a 5-year collaboration with Lamborghini. The Excalibur collection is set to expand in 2019 with more special editions.
Vacheron Constantin Metiers d’Art Les Arostiers
Inspired by the history of hot-air ballooning and the Montgolfier brothers, this series of timepieces by Vacheron Constantin are part of a very long tradition in Swiss watchmaking of producing highly ornamental timepieces. The faces of the watches are masterpieces of the art of goldsmithing, itself deeply rooted in the decorative arts tradition of Swiss watchmaking.
Each timepiece from this collection celebrates a different moment in the history of ballooning, itself the beginning of the conquest of flight
Cartier Révélation d’Une Panthère
A video is required to appreciate the kinetic genius of this watch that took five years to develop, earning Cartier two patents for its innovations. Cartier has a history making magical Mystery Clocks with hidden mechanical movements and transparent, trompe-l’oeil faces.
The playful face features 900 miniature gold balls suspended in liquid which reveal the image of a panther, Cartier’s mascot. Only 100 of these watches will be made at a cost of approx. $105,000 each.
Hermès Carré H
Designed by well known furniture designer, Marc Berthier, this watch is the new addition to the brand’s Carré H line introduced in 2010. This watch borrows rather liberally from Hermès’ collaboration with Apple’s Watch from a few years ago. Its modernist face with all 2-digit numerals compliments the brand’s design ethos and despite its lack of svelteness, it is still a stunning timepiece to collect or own.