LUXE TREND 29
WOMEN’S WEAR F/W 2017 — A RELUCTANT BOLDNESS
You have to give it to Rei Kawakubo for being so bold in sending out a winter collection that encapsulated all that has been going on in Fashion. Her collection of bulbous shapes in all kinds of materials — silver insulation fabric? — was an act of sticking her tongue out to the fashion public, challenging us once again for our preconceived ideas of “what’s right.” The pieces that resembled shells, as if the wearer can actually live in them, like a tortoise that carries its shell on its back.
This visual “cacophony” of course contained marvels of construction, more suitable for a museum or an art gallery. Kawakubo is getting ready for her MET retrospective, so it made sense that she would stay close to the fashion narrative she began more than 30 years ago.
For the rest of fashion’s universe, this upcoming season is shaping up to be one of almost too many trends.
New York blasted off the international fashion weeks with Raf Simons’ debut collection at Calvin Klein. Raf and his team of style “plastic surgeons” decided to completely re-invent CK. Unlike Dior, Calvin Klein’s contribution to fashion rests on two key chapters: jeans and underwear. Thanks to designers who took over the reins of the brand after Calvin’s sale, CK also became synonymous with some signature minimalism. What did we learn from Raf’s first collection? He can design some pretty incredible uniforms. There were one too many references to Margiela in that debut collection, especially in a plastic-covered fur coat.
New York also offered us a very sophisticated collection from Alexander Wang, a hopeful rejuvenation at Oscar de la Renta, and the consummate showmanship of Thom Browne, who really deserves to be given the helms of a couture house at this point.
On to Milan, where Prada worked with some fabulous knits in mixed materials, Versace flexed its sleek muscles with a well-timed delivery, and Bottega Veneta stayed extremely close to its idea of modern elegance. Tomas Maier presented a collection of precise cuts and an earthy color palette that will be the envy of every minimalist in the world.
Gucci, on the other hand, is still riding high after another strong sales quarter. Alessandro Michele’s multi-ethnic melange and his original combinations — original by 2017 standards — are challenging every designer’s preconceived notions of what is acceptable by the fashion public. This collection was as beautifully edited as it was visually cohesive.
And just when we thought that we had the cadence of seasonal trends down, Karl Lagerfeld showed Fendi, and we were back to taking notes. However, while Fendi was the appetizer, Chanel was definitely the main course.
Gucci, on the other hand, is still riding high after another strong sales quarter. Alessandro Michele’s multi-ethnic melange and his original combinations — original by 2017 standards — are challenging every designer’s preconceived notions of what is acceptable by the fashion public. This collection was as beautifully edited as it was visually cohesive.
And just when we thought that we had the cadence of seasonal trends down, Karl Lagerfeld showed Fendi, and we were back to taking notes. However, while Fendi was the appetizer, Chanel was definitely the main course.
In Paris, Balenciaga as conceived by Demna Gevsalia, can go from office to evening haute couture in a heartbeat. Unwearable? Yes, yet at the same time, unquestionably chic. At Balenciaga, all the current trends collide and don’t even ask for acceptance. In Paris, all trends co-exist as testimonies to the designers’ talents as they are freely allowed to explore their creativity.
Here are the major trends that are shaping up the next fashion season:
Men’s and Women’s collections shown together: Calvin Klein, Bottega Veneta
Sterling Silver: Chanel, Comme des Garçons, Bottega Veneta
Multi-culti Patterns: Margiela, Prada
Plastics: Calvin Klein, Margiela
New Knits and Multi-Colored Fur: Prada and Fendi
Fabric Selvedge in Frayed Edges and Materials: Margiela and McQueen
Avant Garde Office and Exaggerated Shoulders: Balenciaga
Yves Klein Blue: Armani, Versace
Thanks to declining numbers in retail, as well as ongoing store closings, it will be interesting to see what is next for fashion. Distribution channels are changing rapidly, while luxury firms (LVMH, Kering), are busy building their e-commerce capabilities. Big Data and Artificial Intelligence will be shaping fashion’s landscape for a very long time. This new wave has begun, yet no clear leaders have emerged. Digital-only players, such as Moda Operandi and Farfetch, are redefining what it means to shop for fashion on your digital device. For fashion creators, some of whom are not in the big leagues yet, it will remain unknown as to how they will be able to be profitable as well as creative.